Go Problem: Black to play and win.

For those who are skeptical of the importance of the correct approach to studying tsumego, let’s consider the following:

1. Your reading ability is the primary foundation for your go ability. If you can’t read worth diddly squat, don’t expect to get any stronger.

2. It’s the most convenient form of go that is available to players if they’re unable to play an actual game. So why not make it an enjoyable activity that will help you get stronger?

3. Finally, since most go players will spend a good portion of their time on tsumego, it is only logical that you would want to maximize the growth you’ll get from the time and energy you spend on it.

That being said. Let’s dive right into how one should properly study tsumego.

#1. As a rule of thumb, spend at least 75% of your time on easy problems.*

If you primarily focus on hard problems, there are three issues that will arise.

A. You will get frustrated because you are going to be wrong most of the time and will be unable to see why you’re wrong. Therefore, you will not learn or gain much.

B. Although you would think that learning how to solve hard problems would result in you being able to solve easy problems, this is rarely the case for tsumego.

C. Finally, you must understand that every game of go you play consists of a majority of easy to intermediate level problems, and then a handful of complicated situations. So instead of understanding the proper moves to make for most of the game and being a little lost for only a small part of the game, you hope to win a game where you make mistakes during the majority of the game and make the occassional correct move for a small part of the game? You might want to think twice about this approach if you want to win any games.

With that in mind, isn’t the only logical thing to do is train your intuition so that your basics become flawless? After all, once the basics become instinctual, you will not even have to consider the trivial moves that once plagued your mind. Instead, you will now be able to focus on more complicated situations that will ultimately allow to rise in strength and ability.

*If you’re wondering what qualifies as easy, it means that you can read out all of the variations in your head with minimal effort.

#2. If you use tsumego software, do not get in the habit of just playing things out because you can.

The short version of the rationale for this is that tsumego software permits you to be lazy by letting the software show why something is wrong. This is a habit that will not only fail to help you improve your reading ability, but will deteriorate it instead. For a more detailed explanation on this topic, visit this post.

3. If you do not understand why your variation does not work, stop and figure it out before moving on.

Although this piece of advice will be difficult to follow as you grow in strength, this is one of those things that will truly help to fill the void where you are not seeing the issue with your variation. If you take the time to properly understand which counter moves negate your solution, it will serve as a big boost to your abilities over time because you will begin to see variations you could never see before. And if you feel like you’ve tried everything (even though in reality you haven’t) and feel strongly that the book is wrong, get a stronger player to help you figure it out. I’ve done this a number of times and without fail, there was always one variation that I left out.

Well I hope that this will get you on the right path to studying tsumego. If you have anything you’d like to add from your own experience, please leave a comment and I’ll be sure to revise the post with ideas that other players can make use of!

So you’ve decided to find out what responsibilities come with purchasing Yunzi stones, well don’t fear! Here is an easy to follow guide. Enjoy!

Why Take the Extra Time to Oil the Stones?

It’s true. You don’t HAVE to oil the stones. Yunzi stones will naturally become glossier and smoother the more you play with them since you hands naturally produces oil. I don’t know about you however, but I’d be an old man by the time it would take the stones to be pleasant to the touch with the oil my hand produces. Not to mention that most of us don’t get to play as often in person as we’d like. If you’re not interested in waiting 50 years for them to achieve the effect that oiling can get in an hour or two, then you’ll want to read the entire guide. For those who don’t care, then all you need is up till Phase 1.

Materials

Depends on whether you want to oil the stones simultaneously, but the you will generally require:

• Yunzi stones
• Dishwashing Soap
• ~15 or ~30 drops of Light machine oil (e.g. sewing machine oil)
  • Note: Do NOT use oils such as vegetable (oil/canola) because they will go RANCID over time.
• 1 or 2 One-gallon freezer bag(s) (depending if you want to oil them at the same time)
• 2 Towels (Large enough to wrap around all of one color at once, otherwise you need more)
• Non-metal strain (something to drain water but it CANNOT be metallic)
  • Metallic strainers can cause a lot of scratches on your stones. So avoid it on the safe side.

Most of us have most of the materials above except the sewing machine oil, and let me tell you that sewing machine oil is NOT expensive. I got mine (pictured above) at a Jo-Ann’s Fabric for only $2.95 + tax. Not to mention you only need like 20 drops or so of it (a little bit more if you oiling the stones simultaneously). So if someone is willing to let you borrow theirs, no worries about using up their oil.

Advice Prior to Starting

1. Although most of the steps are relatively simple, drying the oil off the stones at the end will be particularly time consuming. This guide assumes that you will be doing both colors in the same sitting and by your little lonesome (as I did), so estimate at least an hour and a half for the whole process. (Two if you want to be extra attentive to your stones).

   Note: I’ve broken the guide into three phases in case you are short on time. And of course, if you want to break it up further. Just do the colors on separate days.

2. I would advise to keep the colors separated throughout the process in order to easily keep track of your work. I suggest doing the white stones first since they take more effort and are not as fun to do as the black ones.

3. Just to reiterate, DO NOT use vegetable oils. They will go RANCID.

Procedure

Phase 1

1. So here’s what my stones looked like when I first got them. The stones all come with a white powdery substance in order to minimize scratching and chipping during shipping. As you’ll see, the black stones show the powder really well while the white ones… not so much.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   

2. You essentially need a sink (or bowl) filled with enough water to easily submerge all of one color at once.

3. Then you’ll add a moderate amount of dishwashing soap to get it nice and bubbly. This was about how much I had. Don’t put too much, since it’ll make washing off a pain later.

   

4. To wash your stones, submerge them in the soapy water and hand wash them. You don’t need to be particularly detailed with this part, but try and make sure you wash off any obvious white powder since it’ll get in the way of oiling later. Once you finish with the soap, rinse them off with water. Dump them out onto the towel, and dry them off well before oiling.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Phase 2

1. To oil your stones, take your gallon bag and put 12 drops of oil in there. Now most guides out there recommend 12, but others want to put a few more in just to make sure they are extra oil. It won’t hurt as far as I can tell, but you will want to pay a bit more attention to drying your stones afterwards so no excess oils stay on. Then throw whichever color (I recommend white), and then gently move the stones around making sure to spread the oil around to all of the stones.

   

2. If you are short on time, this is where you take your second one-gallon freezer bag and oil that up as well with ~12 drops of oil and throw in the other color. Mix that bag up just like you did the first one, and then you can let both bags sit. (In case you are wondering if it is bad to do that, my dad let his sit for about 48 hours and they’re just fine.)

   Note: If you are only going to use one freezer bag, then you have two choices: dry off the color which is oiled first, and then oil the other one… OR… if your stones are not too large for the bag, put both in at once.

Phase 3

1. This is the most tedious and time consuming phase. You’ll begin by emptying out your stones in small groups at a time. This will help you keep track of which ones are done and this will also permit you the proper towel space to dry your oiled stones without them falling everywhere. Again, I recommend starting with white since black is very pleasant to do since you’ll see a very obvious change in them.

2. Then you’ll go ahead and dry them off. It is important that you don’t leave any excess oil on them because it will cause your stones/bowls to smell and the excess oil will most likely damage your board over time. If you pick a properly dried off stones with your hand, and then pick up one with excess oil, you’ll know the difference. So just be disciplined about this phase. The white stones will need more individual attention since it is harder to tell whether there is still excess oil on them.

   Tip: As you dry them, try to keep drying the stones with the same area of towel so that it will increase the oiling effect.

   Tip: Also, if you can get a friend to help. This will speed the process a LOT. Just make sure they are attentive about the excess oils on the stones, otherwise you might as well do it yourself.

Conclusion

1. An voila. Here is the finished product! You have no idea how good it felt to take these pictures. I felt so proud.

   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   
   

Well, I hope this was helpful. If you have any further advice or modification you think I should make to the guide, please feel free to comment or e-mail me. Thanks!

Blogger / Blogspot (Google)

WARNING: Contrary to my previous findings, it seems that Blogger may actually not be compatible period with Eidogo anymore. Let me know if you find otherwise.

Part 1: Putting the program into your blog.

1. Access the control panel for your blog.
2. Click Template.
3. Click Edit HTML.
4. A popup will appear that warns you the implications of editing HTML. Nothing to fear. Click Proceed.
5. Once your text editor appears, search for the tag </head>.
6. Move your text cursor to the beginning of the tag and press the Enter/Return key to create an empty line.
7. Copy and paste the following code in the new line break you just created.
   <script type="text/javascript" src="http://www.eidogo.com/player/js/all.compressed.js"></script>
8. Click Save template.
9. Part 1 complete!

Part 2: Preparing your kifu for embedding.

1. Download your desired kifu (which should be an SGF file).
2. Open the SGF file in a text editor (e.g., Notepad).
3. At the very beginning of the document, paste the following code:
   <div class="eidogo-player-auto">
4. Go to the very end of the document, paste the following code:
   </div>
5. Select the entire text and copy it.
6. Part 2 complete!

Part 3: Inserting your kifu into the post.

1. Edit the post that you want to embed the sgf file into.
2. On the left side above the text area, you should see two option: Compose | HTML, make sure that Compose is selected (it should have a darker gray background that looks as if it is indented).
3. Move your text cursor to the area in the post that you want to post the SGF file to.
4. Type PASTE SGF FILE.
5. Click on the HTML tab mentioned in Step #5.
6. Find the text you typed in Step #4. It should look something like this:
   <div>PASTE SGF FILE</div>
7. Highlight the entire code mentioned in Step #6.
8. Paste copied text from Part 2.
9. Click Save or Publish.
10. Success!

Disclaimers:

• The Eidogo Viewer will not appear in the preview nor will it appear in the compose section. It’ll just look like a gigantic text version of your sgf file. Don’t worry though! It works on the actual site.
• In case anyone is using SmartGo2 to create/modify their SGF file, the code they produce will cause Eidogo to not see the proper handicap, the players and their respective colors, komi, along with any commentary made throughout the game. As a result, I recommend that you use CGoban instead.

Many thanks to Nate for helping me create this guide and Eidogo for creating an amazing viewer!!

Last updated October 29th, 2012.

So I’m not sure who else is having issue with this, but I most certainly did. So here’s a guide on how you can print readable Go records. To make things easier, I’m going to assume you are looking to print every 50 moves.

For those who want a free method, I recommend CGoban3.

1. After you download and cue it up, click on “Edit SGF File.”

2. Find the game you are looking for.

3. Use the singular right arrow button to move progress through the game.

4. DO NOT use the double arrow buttons as that will take you to the beginning or end of the game.4. Move forth to the 50th move. In the caption box above your digital goban, you should see something along the lines of “Move 50 (W m8): Black to play”

5. Click on Options > Number Moves

6. Make sure your start move is 1 and the end move is 50.

7. The “Two digits only?” is up to you when you get to the triple digits.6. Click OK.

8. Boom. Now click Options > Print.

9. For the next sheets, you’ll want 51-100, 101-150, 151-200, and so on.

10. Here’s an example:

For those who have SmartGo2, I contacted their customer service (who got back to me quite promptly) and this is what you have to do.

1. Start by opening up whichever game you want to print out.

2. Click Edit > Insert Diagram > Split main line of game record every 50 moves.

3. Make that the Diagrams Toolbar is on.

4. View > Tools > Diagrams

5. The fourth box down is where my “Find next diagram” box is.4. Then click File > Print for the appropriate sheets.

6. As with above, here’s an example:

They also recommended a method of exporting the diagrams, but I had no luck with that as of yet.

When you compare the two, I’m sure you noticed that there’s a coordinate system on the SmartGo2 that you can print out. As far as I’m aware, you can’t do that just yet with CGoban3. Another thing I really appreciate about the SmartGo2 is the fact that it prints out all the ko’s so that record keeping is easier. This means when you’re recreating your games you’re not like, “Where is the #$%& move 119?!?!” Though this is small, SmartGo2 also automatically prints what diagram it is (e.g. 101-150).

Don’t get me wrong though, the free one works fantastic and is a great alternative for those who aren’t quite ready to drop $50 to buy SmartGo2. I’ll try and come out with the reviews for the respective softwares soon enough so you can see if it’s worth your time. Hope this helps some of you out!